June 2, 2023
Ethical, Sustainable Sapphires

Ethical Gemstones: Why You Should Consider them?

Today, more and more people are socially and environmentally conscious. As a result, the interest in ethical gemstones is noticeably increasing. But many still wonder what exactly ethically fair gemstones are.

Most people know, is a hard work to mine gems. Mining is always an intrusion on nature and rare gemstones are not found every day or every week, which makes them rare and especially valuable.  

Sustainable gemstone producers strive to limit their impact on the environment and ensure that the workers who mine the gems are treated fairly. If you'd like to learn more about the world of ethically fair-mined gemstones, here's what you need to know.

Fair Ceylon Sapphires
Fair Ceylon Sapphires

What are Ethical Gemstones?

Ethical Gemstones are gemstones that are extracted from the earth using environmentally friendly methods by miners who are treated fairly and not subjected to harsh working conditions, and the profits generated from the sale of these gemstone are not used to support activities like war, terrorism, or political corruption.

The goal of more environmentally conscious gemstone mining is to impact nature and the ecosystem as little as possible. Mining is always an impact on nature, but there are techniques that are in harmony with the environment for minimal impact.

Fairly mined and processed gemstones ensure that workers are not exploited. Fair wages and safe working conditions apply to the miners and no forced or child labor applies.  

It also aims to ensure that revenue from the business is not used to support or facilitate various conflicts. The best-known examples are terrorist activities or genocide, or other situations where people are oppressed. In the case of diamonds, therefore, the term "conflict-free diamonds" has become established, subject to the Kimberley Process, to prevent trade in so-called blood diamonds.  

Ethical gemstones, however, is much more than conflict-free; they are mined in harmony with nature and the people behind the gemstones receive fair pay and safe working conditions. Mining of gemstones varies widely around the world also due to the different conditions of their formation and mining. Environmentally friendly techniques and approaches can therefore be different, but always with the same goal.  

There is a huge difference between ethical gemstones and just conflict-free gemstones. It is worth taking a closer look.

Ethical sapphires
Ethical sapphires

What are Conflict-Free Gemstones?

Conflict-free gems are gems that do not fund terrorism, civil wars, or similar actions where people are killed or oppressed. The most well-known example of these practices are conflict-free diamonds, but these are far from the only ones.

Which gems are conflict-free? As a general rule, all ethical gemstones are conflict-free. However, not all conflict-free gemstones are ethical.

It is important to know that conflict-free gemstones do not necessarily come from ethically fair sources. Gemstones that are obtained through environmentally harmful techniques, such as large-scale mechanical mining or exploitation of miners, may still be conflict-free because the money is not being used to finance a conflict.

Many companies who offer lab-grown diamonds and gemstones also claim sustainability. How can be a lab-grown gem ethical or sustainable?

Conflict-free diamonds
Conflict-free diamonds
(Source: International Gem Society)

What are Lab-Grown Gemstones?

Gemstones grown in the laboratory are man-made. With the same chemical structure, physical properties and appearance. Synthetic gemstones or also called syntheses which are industrially produced are usually purer than their naturally occurring counterparts.  

Because they are produced by machine, there is no forced or child labor and no human exploitation. Therefore, it is often claimed that lab-grown gemstones are more sustainable and better for people and the environment. However, one must consider that for many people in the countries of origin of natural gemstones, gemstone mining is their livelihood and source of income in the countries of origin. During the industrial production in the laboratory, an enormous amount of energy must be expended, which represents a high CO2 load.  

Artificially produced gemstones from the laboratory are usually also touted as more economical and cheaper. This depends on the kind of gemstone and can also be true. Especially rare natural gemstones have their value due to their rarity as a natural treasure and are therefore more expensive and considered more valuable.  

Industrially manufactured gemstones can be produced as often as desired, just also on mass, which lowers their price and value, but unfortunately brings only a small revenue when reselling, due to the constantly increasing supply on the market and many people prefer a natural gemstone to an industrial product.

Recycled gemstones and diamonds are also a term which is often used in terms of sustainable gems, let’s have a look what it is exactly.

Recycled gemstones and diamonds are terms often used in the context of sustainable gems. Let's take a closer look at what they actually are.

What are Recycled Gemstones?

The term recycled gemstones refers primarily to diamonds but also to other colored gemstones that have been set in jewelry and removed for reuse. It is a good way to use old diamonds, but it has no impact on responsible mining practices and ethical gemstones. It is simply a way to repurpose gemstones for a new use, which is fine, but it has no bearing on sustainable and resource-efficient mining of gemstones.

There are also recycled diamonds that have been used by a consumer and are therefore considered "post-consumer diamonds" that were previously owned by a consumer.  Which then re-enter the diamond supply chain - they can technically be 100 years old or 10 months old. Antique diamonds are at least one hundred years old. There is an FTC legal definition for the term "antique." Technically, stones from the 30s and 40s should be considered "vintage."

The background is precisely the longevity of diamonds and other colored gemstones such as the sapphire and ruby due to their hardness and resilience. A supposedly old stone does not lose value, on the contrary, it gains significantly. By re-cutting or re-polishing, it shines in new splendor. For old cut diamonds there is also a large market of enthusiasts who enjoy the antique cuts.  

In the case of sapphires and rubies, it is not so much the antique cut much more the color and quality that underline its popularity, even if it was found 30 or 150 years ago. In most cases, however, colored gemstones from antique jewelry need to be recut, as the latest cutting techniques give the stones a better brilliance and radiance.  

Precious metals recycling should not be confused with recycled gemstones.

Recycling precious metals in jewelry making is a good approach to conserving resources. To use existing and not consume new. In the context of fairly mined precious metals, recycling means something different, since it has been mined under certain conditions. Therefore, it is always important to distinguish the terms that are often used in connection with the big buzzwords such as sustainability, transparency, and fairness.

Faire Ceylon Sapphires
Fair Ceylon Sapphires

Are Sapphires Ethical?

Sapphires from responsible sources are ethically fair when the mining process focuses on the environment and the people behind the gemstones. Not every sapphire is ethically fair. The vast majority of sapphires can be considered conventional, according to their mining conditions and framework in the country of origin. In Africa, the conditions others are not to be compared with those in Sri Lanka.  

Sri Lanka is considered a showcase country for sapphire mining, not least because of its history and tradition for thousands of years. The export of rough stones is prohibited to maintain value creation and jobs in the country. Mining is very fragmented in Sri Lanka, many small mines and cooperations are mining and trading, this is good and a contrast du the large mining corporations in many other countries that dictate the rules and machinations.  

There is no illegal mining in Sri Lanka, everything is regulated by stately licenses for mining and export and is also strictly controlled. Sapphire mining is traditionally done by hand, which has the smallest environmental footprint. Shaft and pit mining is about the preservation and longevity of the natural treasure that is Ceylon Sapphire. No selling out of the resource within a few years to the highest bidder.  

Open pit miners are required to revegetate the mining areas before moving on to the next area. Child labor is prohibited in Sri Lanka's gemstone mining industry. The miners are also co-owners of the mine production itself. There is a great deal of trust between the miners and the mine owners. Therefore, both sides are well taken care of and respected.

In Africa, unfortunately, the world looks a little different. Madagascar is a new source of sapphires, which were first found in Ilakaka in the late 1990s. The gem rush drove thousands of enthusiasts to the mines. Later, gem deposits were also found in the Ambatondrazaka and Didy areas. After the initial rush, however, the mines have quieted down, and mechanical mining is on the decline and banned in most mining areas. People are now moving to traditional mining with hand tools. The Malagasy government is constantly working to improve the environment and sustainable mining, following the example of Sri Lanka, but this is still a very long and rocky road, which is also shown by the current political conditions on mining.  

Occupational safety and security at the mines are unfortunately rare and often it is children and young people who search for sapphires in Madagascar. Widespread is a system of larger mining players who provide locals with shovels and picks, but do not treat or pay them fairly. There are a few micro-cooperatives working to improve conditions, but it still takes time, as in any developing country, to significantly improve standards. The situation is similar in Tanzania and Mozambique, two other countries where new sapphires are currently being found. You can't compare the conditions exactly, but you must look closely at the conditions of mining for people and nature.

What are the Negative Impacts of Traditional Gemstone Mining

• Gemstone mining can be hazardous to the health of workers and local communities alike. Diamond miners often work in cramped and unsafe conditions in tunnels, and dust from the mines can cause respiratory illness among workers and residents of surrounding communities.  

• Mining of colored gemstones such as rubies and emeralds is generally done on a smaller scale than diamond mining, but still poses risks. According to the International Labor Organization (ILO), many small-scale miners are unable to invest in tools and equipment that could prevent accidents. Because mining involves moving large amounts of earth, it can also alter local ecosystems and damage watersheds. And although many countries where gemstones are mined have laws that set a minimum age for workers in hazardous occupations, the ILO has also documented child labor in mines.

• Child labor is also a problem in the cutting and polishing stages of diamond and colored gemstone production, much of which takes place in Asia; according to the ILO, 70 percent (by weight) of the world's diamond yield is cut in India alone. Child labor is illegal in India, but this law is largely ignored.  

• The human suffering associated with gemstone production does not end with those who mine and cut the stones. In Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Liberia and Sierra Leone, profits from diamond sales have funded arms purchases for armed opposition groups that commit human rights abuses.

Sapphire mining in Madagascar
Sapphire mining in Madagascar
(Source: GIA)

What are the Benefits of Ethical Gemstones?

Ethically and fairly mined gemstones follow regulations to ensure the safety and livelihood of its workers and to protect the environment. It requires principles to ensure the rights and safety of its workers, environmental protection, cultural diversity, product integrity and a transparent supply chain. Briefly summarized the advantages:  

• An advantage is the environmental protection to minimize the impact of gemstone mining in the sense of nature and ecology. It is important to restore the mines after the end of mining and to carry out a renaturation, a reforestation of the mine site.

• The improvement of the miners' living conditions is a clear benefit, the guarantee of their safety, the facilitation of their heavy physical work, as well as the adequate remuneration and the direct participation in the value creation of the finds. In addition, the initiation of social projects for the mining families and communities to improve education and health.

Gemstone Mine in Sri Lanka
Gemstone Mine in Sri Lanka

What Gemstones are Ethically Sourced?

There are about 50 countries in the world with productive mines, and most of them have a rather dubious reputation when it comes to ethics and fairness in gemstone mining.  

Below is an overview of countries and gem types that meet most of the criteria for ethically fair and sustainable gemstones. No country is perfect or without some form of exploitation, but there are a number of gemstone producing countries with strong labor and environmental laws where you can feel pretty safe buying:

• Boulder opals from Australia: the harsh conditions and strict regulations make boulder opal prospecting in outback Queensland a job reserved for only the most determined. The absence of toxic chemicals and the commitment to rehabilitate the land after mining.  

• Howlite from the U.S.: An hour from Los Angeles, in Tick Canyon, howlite can be picked up from the ground and is also found in Death Valley and San Bernadino.

Ammolite from Canada: This colorful gemstone is found only in the rocky mountains of Canada, and the finished mining areas are restored to their natural state, every layer of soil is properly replaced, trees and shrubs are planted, so you don't even realize that a mining operation existed.

• Spectrolite from Finland: Spectrolite is a very high quality form of labradorite found only in Finland. The mine in Ylämaa, South Karelia, is open to all visitors who want to see how this beautiful gemstone, said to contain the northern lights, is mined.

• Diamonds from Canada and Australia: diamond mining is strictly regulated and the labor protection regulations are according to western standards, due to the high level of regulation it can be almost excluded that mining is not ethically fair.  

• Sapphires of all colors, spinels and hessonite garnet from Sri Lanka: Sri Lanka is home to the most beautiful gemstones in the world, including rubies and sapphires of the highest quality, but for variety there are also the beautiful orange garnets and special spinels. Traditional small-scale mining is less harmful to the environment and provides regular work for the rural population. When all the gems are collected, they easily and quickly become usable farmland again.

• Yellow and orange sapphire from Thailand: A hundred years ago, pepper, tobacco and sugarcane farmers in eastern Thailand collected gems from the ground while digging and sold them in large quantities. Nowadays they are rarer and more expensive, but gemstone hunting is done voluntarily in the workers' spare time.

• Zircon from Cambodia: Just across the border from Thailand's most famous mining areas are the mines of Cambodia. Sapphire, garnet, quartz and other gemstones can be found here, but the selection of zircons is fantastic. Blue, orange, red, pink and white colors can be found in this fiery gemstone.

• Tanzanian Tsavorite Garnet: Recent efforts by organizations such as the Tanzanian Women's Mining Association (TAWOMA), Pact and Moyo to improve the lives and prospects of artisanal miners in Tanzania have worked wonders. The gorgeous green Tsavorite garnet is named after the world-famous Tsavo Game Reserve in nearby Kenya.

• Larimar from the Dominican Republic: Larimar is the only gemstone found in the Caribbean. Its beautiful blue color perfectly expresses the exotic tropical seas. It is mined in the dense jungles of the Bahorucos Mountains, where the government ensures the safety of the miners.

Ethical Gemstones
Ethical Gemstones
(Source: National Jeweler)

How To Determine if a Gemstone has been Sourced Ethically?

It is best to ask your gemstone supplier or goldsmith about this.  

• Where does the gemstone come from?  

• How is the gemstone treated?  

• What are the mining conditions on site?  

The key is a sustainable supply chain with fair mining conditions for people and nature. The jewelry and gemstone industry is well connected worldwide. Everyone knows everyone through a few corners. Asking for references or recommendations is one way besides searching the internet, where you usually come across the big words "fair trade" and "sustainable" and don't know for sure if it's just marketing.  

Still, the most important thing is to ask questions. Suppliers of gemstones or jewelry to whom transparency and sustainability are important may report far more details about their gemstone or jewelry than others.  

There is unfortunately not the one certification for gemstones or database where you can just look. Much relies on trust and reliability, for this reason asking for background information is the only and most reliable way for a customer who wants to purchase a fair trade gemstone or have jewelry created from it.

Are there any certificates or gem reports available for responsible mined gemstones or ethical gems? This is a big question in the market. We have to have a closer look at it.    

Are there Certifications for Sustainable Gemstones?

For gemstone mining, unfortunately, there are still no reliable certifications that come close to the institutions in the field of gold mining. Yes, there are some, but on closer inspection they are not reliable since the independent certification partners in the country of origin can usually be chosen and also paid for. Furthermore, there is only a one-time certification and no continuous monitoring. It would be nice if in the future this would also exist in gemstones in addition to gold.  

Social and green washing is unfortunately widespread in many products. So unfortunately, also in the area of gemstones. Corresponding certifications rely on self-commitment declarations and audits, where unfortunately the body to be audited is not independently commissioned and thus the neutrality is to be questioned.  

For this reason, the customer must look closely at the corresponding gemstone supplier, obtain references, and ask questions. Ask about the origin of the gemstone and the general conditions of mining and have the corresponding documents shown, for transparent and sustainable business practices.

Fair Ceylon Sapphire
Fair Ceylon Sapphire

Where can I buy gemstones that are ethical?

Theoretically, at any goldsmith or jeweler. The question is whether he knows exactly the origin and mining conditions of the gemstone. This must be inquired.  

There are many gemstone producers and wholesalers, the proportion of companies that specialize in fair trade gemstones and can reliably prove this is infinitesimal. However, they do exist, you just must find them and go in search of them.

In short, sustainable mining for fair trade gemstones includes:  

• Occupational safety and health measures

• Concrete organizational structures and work processes  

• Fair participation of miners and cutters

• Mining with minimal impact on nature (small-scale mining using manual labor)  

• Only use of natural materials (e.g. no plastic, chemicals, etc.)

• Re-naturalization or reforestation after mining ends

There are very few suppliers of fair-trade gemstones that take this issue seriously and have established a direct, sustainable supply chain. It is recommended to research and ask critically.

Ceylon Blue Sapphire from responsible Mining
Ceylon Blue Sapphire from responsible Mining

Ethically Sourced Sapphires from CEYLONS | MUNICH

We are specialized in fine and fair sapphires from Sri Lanka. Our ethical gemstones come from small scale mining where we have implemented many sustainable improvements on site. Our principles and what "fair" and "sustainable" means to us in our sapphires can be found here "Fair Sapphires".

It is important to us that all the people behind the gemstones receive a fair share of the value created, and that our mining operations have a minimal impact on the local environment and conditions. We have a transparent and traceable supply chain for every sapphire from our mining partnerships.  

This was the reason we founded CEYLONS, "Fair for All" to ensure a sustainable and transparent supply chain, in fine sapphire grades. Our success proves us right, more and more customers appreciate our responsible approach to people and nature and our direct access to fine sapphire qualities at reasonable prices.

Browse our Online Shop or Send us an Inquiry for a Customized Sapphire

FAQ  

Which gemstones are conflict free?

All gemstones that can be proven not to have been mined illegally and whose sale does not finance civil wars and other violent conflicts in which people are killed or oppressed.

How to buy gemstones ethically?

By asking your goldsmith and jeweler about the particular country of origin of the gemstone and the general conditions of gemstone mining. There are few ethically fair gemstone suppliers that have a transparent and traceable supply chain.  

Are any diamonds truly ethical?

No, the vast majority of diamonds come from African countries where mining conditions do not meet Western standards. Most diamonds are conflict-free according to the Kimberley Process, but ethically fair means that they were mined in harmony with people and nature.  

What is the most ethical stone for an engagement ring?

A diamond from Australia or Canada or a sapphire from Sri Lanka.

By

CEYLONS | MUNICH stands for the finest Ceylon sapphires. A brand committed to responsible mining of Sri Lankan gemstones obtained in an ethical manner.

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